Cuban Knight Anole (Anolis equestris) Care Sheet

Cuban Knight Anole (Anolis equestris)

Distribution: Native to Cuba but has established itself as a non-native species in Southern Florida. ( Wild caught specimens in the pet trade are from the Florida populations.)

Habitat: Highly arboreal. Lives high up in tree canopies and rarely descends to the ground unless they are laying eggs or males are looking for new territory.

Diet: In the wild they eat a large variety of insects, smaller anoles including their own species, frogs, basically anything they can catch that fits in their mouth and occasionally fruit.

Size: This species is the largest of anoles and can attain lengths in the wild of 18-22 inches. Young Cuban Knight anoles raised in captivity are usually smaller at about 13-15 inches as adults.

Active: Cuban Knight anoles are diurnal, meaning they are active during the day and sleep at night.

Sexing: This species has sexual dimorphism. Both sexes may have a throat fan but usually this is only present in males. In the cases where females have one it is usually smaller as males have a very large pink throat fan. Males also tend to be bigger and have larger, bonier heads than females. During mating season a male can also exhibit hemipenal bulges under the tail base. As babies I have heard that females have white bands on the body and males do not. I am not sure how accurate this is though.

Behavior: The males of this species are very territorial. They often are seen doing a variety of displays with their throat fan and doing push-ups to communicate to males that they are dominate or to females when courting. In the wild there is a single dominate male with two or three females in his territory. If other males are present he will attack, fight and defend his territory and females until the new male leaves. For this reason two males cannot be kept in the same cage or one of them will die, either from fighting or the dominate one stressing the non-dominate one to the point where it won't eat, drink and hide until it wastes away and dies. Cuban Knight anoles are best kept singly or one male with one or two females.

Breeding: Breeding season is between spring and early fall. Females lay 10-12 eggs in a clutch being spaced out at 1-2 eggs every couple of weeks until they are all laid. They can lay 1-3 clutches each breeding season.

Captive care: Minimum of 30 gallons of space per anole. The cage must be taller rather than wider. They must have lots of climbing branches, vines and plants in the enclosure for them to feel secure. Substrate in the cage should be eco earth/bed a beast, moss or pestcide/fertilizer free soil to prevent impaction from accidental ingestion. They require heavy water misting at least twice a day for humidity and for drinking as they will not drink water from a bowl. Humidity should fluctuate between 50%-80%. Lighting must be with a 5.0 UVB bulb (replaced every 6-8 months even if it still gives off light because the amount of UVB being put off will "wear out") going across the top and also a heat lamp for basking at one end of the cage. The cool side of the cage should be at 70-80 degrees and the warm side under the basking area should be 95-100 degrees. Lights should be on 12 hours during the day and turned off at night. You only need night time heat if your room temp goes below 70 degrees. Feeder insects should be dusted once a week with calcium only, no added vitamin D3 as they are able to produce D3 on their own with proper UVB lighting. Prey items should be dusted with a vitamin powder with added vitamin D3 once a month. They can be offered crickets, meal worms,super worms,wax worms, phoenix worms, roaches, small green or brown anoles, and various sweet kinds of fruits in small pieces. Prey items may be offered daily to every other day and fruit may be offered once a week.

Lifespan: 10-15 years in captivity.

Additional notes: This species sometimes has a hard time adjusting to captivity especially as adults. When first getting one make sure you follow this care sheet and set everything up correctly or they will get stressed and die. It is normal for them to not eat or drink right away after getting them home, but still offer both every day. Leave them alone for the first week or so until you notice them eating and drinking normally/regularly. When they are stressed, sick or cold they turn brown. When they are happy they stay bright green. When your Cuban Knight anole is adjusted and remains green in his/her cage for a week or so and is happy, you may attempt taming it. This species has the ability to become very tame. They will sit on your shoulder or head as you walk around, can be hand fed (watch your fingers when hand feeding, they can break skin if they bite you on accident) and likes being stroked under the chin. You can also get a 6ft tree to put in your house so they can sit in it, they usually will not run away or jump out of it.

If you have any questions or concerns about this species email me at: thereptilewhisperer@gmail.com

Species I have personal experience with

These are a list of herps I have had experience with either as pets, cared for, or observed and then caught in the wild.

Cuban Knight Anole (Anolis equestris)

Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis)

Brown Anole (Anolis sagrei)

Bark Anole (Anolis distichus)

Crested Gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus)

Tokay Gecko (Gekko Gecko)

White Lined Gecko (Gekko Vitattus)

House Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus)

Marbled Gecko (Christinus mamoratus)

Golden Gecko (Gekko ulikovskii)

White Spotted Gecko (Tarentola annularis)

Crocodile Gecko (Tarentola mauritanica)

Giant Day Gecko (Phelsuma madagascariensis grandis)

Lined Day Gecko (Phelsuma lineata)

Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)

Irian Jaya Blue Tongue Skink (scientifically undescribed(Tiliqua sp)

Schneider's Skink (Eumeces schneideri)

Five Lined Skink(Eumeces fasciatus)

Ground Skink (Scincella lateralis)

Broad-headed Skink (Eumeces laticeps)

Eastern Glass Lizard (Ophisaurus ventralis)

Short Horned Lizard (Phrynosoma hernandesi)

Eastern Fence Lizard (Sceloporus undulatus)

Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps)

Veiled Chameleon (Chamaeleo calyptratus)

Oustalet's Chameleon (Furcifer oustaleti)

Emerald Tree Monitor (Varanus prasinus)

Dumeril's Monitor (Varanus dumerilii)

Savannah Monitor (Varanus exanthematicus)

Nile Monitor (Varanus niloticus)

Yellow Bellied slider (Trachemys scripta scripta)

Red Eared slider (Trachemys scripta elegans)

Midland Painted Turtle (Chrysemys picta)

Common Map Turtle (Graptemys geographica)

Common Snapping Turtle (Chelydra serpentina)

Common Musk Turtle (Sternotherus oderatus)

Narrow-bridged Musk Turtle (Claudius angustatus)

Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina)

Wood Turtle (Glyptemys insculpta)

Eastern American Toad (Bufo americanus)

Giant Bufo Toad (Bufo marinus)

Green Tree Frog (Hyla cinerea)

Gray Tree frog (Hyla versicolor)

American Bull Frog (Rana catesbeiana)

Green Frog (Rana clamitans)

African Clawed Frog (Xenopus laevis)

African Dwarf Frog (Hymenochirus boettgeri)

Argentine Horned Frog (Ceratophrys ornata)

Leopard Frog (Rana pipiens)

Spring Peeper Frog (Pseudacris crucifer)

Wood Frog (Rana sylvatica)

Chinese Fire Belly Newt (Cynops orientalis)

Ridge Back Newt (Paramesotriton hongkongensis)

Redback Salamander (Plethodon cinereus)

Longtail Salamander (Eurycea longicauda longicauda)

Northern Two-Lined Salamander (Eurycea bislineata bislineata)

Mountain Dusky Salamander (Desmognathus ochrophaeus)

Northern Dusky Salamander (Desmognathus fuscus fuscus)

Axolotol (Ambystoma mexicanum)

Brahminy Blind Snake (Ramphotyphlops braminus)

Garter Snake (Thamnophis sirtalis)

Western Terrestrial Garter Snake (Thamnophis elegans)

Corn Snake (Elaphe guttata)

Black Rat Snake (Elaphe obsoleta)

Leucistic Texas Rat Snake (Elaphe obsoleta lindheimeri)

California King Snake (Lampropeltis getula californiae)

Yellow Rat Snake (Elaphe obsoleta quadrivittata)

Cottonmouth Snake (Agkistrodon piscivorus)

Copperhead Snake (Agkistrodon contortrix)

Ring neck snake (Diadophis punctatus)

Black Racer Snake (Coluber constrictor priapus)

Northern Water Snake (Nerodia sipedon)

Ball Python (Python regius)

Burmese Python (Python molurus bivittatus)

American Alligator (Alligator mississippiensis)

This is all I can think of at the moment but I'm sure I'll have to put more up here as I remember them. The venomous snakes on here are the only animals on this list I caught and released the same day. Everything else I've kept as pets, cared for or at least observed in captivity for a week or more. Most on the list have been or are currently my pets:)

Compact UVB bulbs, harmful to reptiles?

I have seen a lot of people on the net say compact UVB bulbs are harmful to reptiles. Compact bulbs meaning they are shaped like a regular tube bent in half, corkscrew or in the shape of a halo/circle. These are being made by several different reptile product manufactures. The lights are said to cause blindness in your animals. Well, I've done some research on the net and found a website that actually did studies on these bulbs and had reported cases of effected reptiles along with some pretty sad pictures. This is the site, I encourage you to check it out! http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor.htm

Basically the information in the sites I've found on the net( not just the one I created the link to) states that these bulbs put out harmful amounts of UV radiation which can harm your reptile in more than one way. First off it states that because they are too bright and put out low wave length UVB and UVC your reptile gets photo-kerato-conjunctivitis ( basically the same thing as snow blindness in humans). It states that the eyes swell up and eventually swell shut. Accompanying this your reptiles exhibit lethargy, decreased appetite, sometimes even lesions that look like burns and exfoliation of the skin on the eyelids. Luckily they state that this is not permanent and if the bulbs are removed your reptile should be fully recovered in 2-14 days. Also (my theory from past experience) If exposed for a long period of time your reptile is unable to control how much D3 it makes and the calcium levels increase making it susceptible to getting Hypercalcemia, especially if you are giving it a D3 supplement. (I am currently working to prove this with the help of my vet) Look at the previous post to learn about Hypercalcemia.

Here are some pics of different compact bulbs

I have talked to my veterinarian about this subject and sent her to the above link. She had not heard about this before and started looking for the illness "photo-kerato-conjunctivitis" in her reference books. So far she has not found anything. This is a relative new thing with reptiles being that these bulbs have not been around for very long so it may be that that's why she can't find it. The both of us are very interested in learning the truth of the matter. She has told me she will be talking to some experts in the reptile veterinary field and let me know if she finds anything out. I will keep you posted on anything I find out! If you have anything you would like to share about your personal experiences with these lights please leave a comment or email me about it.

Part two: 01-29-09

Alright, so I did some more research since first writing this post. I looked at some of the medical websites and found definitions for Photokeratitis and Photoconjunctivitis which combined is what "photo-kerato-conjunctivitis" seems to be referring to. Photokeratitis is a burn of the cornea (the clear front surface of the eye) by ultraviolet B rays (UVB). Also called radiation keratitis or snowblindness. The World Health Organization(WHO) explains that Photokeratitis is an inflammation of the cornea, while photoconjunctivitis refers to an inflammation of the conjunctiva, the membrane that lines the inside of the eyelids and eye socket. These inflammatory reactions may be compared to a sunburn of the very sensitive skin-like tissues of the eyeball and eyelids and usually appear within a few hours of exposure. Photokeratitis and photoconjunctivitis can be very painful, however, they are reversible and do not seem to result in any long-term damage to the eye or vision.

I also read(from the FDA Center for Devices and Radiological Heath ) overexposure to UV radiation may suppress proper functioning of the body’s immune system and the skin’s natural defenses, increasing sensitivity to sunlight, diminishing the effects of immunizations or causing reactions to certain medications. And also( from Encyclopedia II), prolonged exposure to solar UV radiation may result in acute and chronic health effects on the skin, eye, and immune system.

This (below) was from a fact sheet on ultraviolet radiation.
Exposure and Hazards of UVExposure to UV light posses a serious threat to both the eye and skin. Diagnosis of exposure may vary but are commonly set into two categories, photokeratitis (eye injury) and erythema (sunburn). Photokeratitis is an inflammation of the cornea (outer protective coating of the eye) that is caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Eye injury can occur due to very brief exposure or with just a flash of intense UV. Erythema is sunburn of the skin and can occur within a few seconds of exposure to a concentrated form of UV. Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light also causes premature aging and cancer of the skin. So what would a lizard look like if it had sunburn? It would look like it was shedding continuously, especially around the eyes. This is also described as being apart of "photo-kerato-conjunctivitis".

Here is a link to a recall page from R-Zilla discussing the affected bulbs and that it causes "photo-kerato-conjunctivitis" http://www.zilla-rules.com/assets/006/13278.pdf

Here are two websites about reptile lighting that briefly mention "photo-kerato-conjuctivitis" http://www.beardeddragoncaresheet.org/lighting.html http://web.mac.com/breadnbutterdesign/%5BCND%5D/MegaRay_Lamp_Review.html

This is a very interesting thread I found(below), it actually has the people from the UV guide website talking on here. This thread talks about how these lights can cause toxic levels of D3! It's kinda lengthy but worth it to hear what they are talking about.

RE: [UVB_Meter_Owners] Re: New file - R-Zilla advert - toxic D3 from abnormal spectra? http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/UVB_Meter_Owners/message/6216

I will continue to keep you guys posted with whatever else I might find!

4/5/09

So I have been doing a lot of research on this matter and have contacted the author of the UV guide website. Talking to her has really made me understand why the affected bulbs are "bad". She has been a great help in understanding what to look for in a reptile's blood to prove or disprove Hypercalcaemia in affected reptiles. I had a pair of lizards that were affected by a "bad" bulb and that is what started my interest in the matter. The pair of lizards I have, have almost fully recovered. The author of the site is currently working on a publication about this and I have given her my case history of my lizards as well as other affected reptiles I have aquired affected by "bad" bulbs. I started asking around and found some reptiles that were affected and I asked permission to document their recovery. I have been taking them to my vet and I'm trying to see if any of them are Hypercalcaemic. In the future I will be trying to get a solar meter so that I may test "bad" bulbs myself. This little research project has now become much bigger than I ever thought. It has really intrigued my interest and when I am able to post my findings and results on affected reptiles I will. I will also inform you about what the author of the UV guide website has found out about these harmful bulbs after she publishes it.

Diurnal Species of reptiles-VERY IMPORTANT

Diurnal species(active during the day) need UVB exposure to make the vitamin D3 that is required to absorb calcium. If they do not have adequate UVB exposure they will not be able to do this and the result is Hypocalcemia or better known as Metabolic Bone Disease(MBD). This is fatal and a horrible way to die. Symptoms are bone deformities, loss of proper motor functions(shaky when walking,unable to hold on to things,laying there unable to move), lethargy, loss of appetite, caving in of body structures such as the casque on chameleons, dehydration from not drinking, sunken in eyes, change in normal skin color(sign of stress), Bones feel spongy. This can also lower your reptiles immunity making them susceptible to other illnesses and/or parasite infestations. If your reptile displays any combination of the above symptoms take them to the vet right away. Something is wrong. Most often reptiles don't show they are sick until the illness is moderate to severe. The way to prevent MBD is to expose them to natural unfiltered (no glass or plastic in between the source and your reptile)sunlight all day every day or using a UVB light above their enclosure with (no glass or plastic) in between the light and your enclosure. The UVB light must be changed every 6 months even if it still puts off light. The reason is because the amount of UVB put out decreases over time. Some people do test their lights on a regular basis to check UVB output and change them when it starts going down, but most people don't so I recommend changing it every 6 months to be safe. You must provide the UVB lighting over the whole length of your enclosure.

When feeding always dust food with a calcium supplement or you can also give reptiles calcium in the form of a liquid and give it to them by hand. VERY IMPORTANT: If you give a calcium supplement to your lizards and they receive proper UVB exposure(with changing the bulb every six months) at least 12 hours a day you DO NOT need to give them the vitamin D3! You will see in pet stores calcium supplements with added vitamin D3, don't use them. Get calcium only. Your reptile if it has proper UVB exposure and proper heating it is already able to make enough of this vitamin on their own. Giving them calcium with added D3 will give them Hypercalcemia which is where they have an excessive amount of calcium in the blood. This is caused usually by overdosing the calcium or D3 intake. This can also be fatal if not caught in time. NOTE: It is normal to have high calcium levels in the blood if your reptile is producing eggs. Symptoms are lethargy, decreased appetite,dehydration,color change(from stress), laying on the bottom of the cage if they are normally arboreal. As with Hypocalcemia(MBD), Hypercalcemia also lowers the immune defenses and they can be susceptible to illnesses and/or parasite infestations.

Tokay geckos

For those of you out there who think Tokays can't be tamed, your wrong. Tokay geckos are one of the most misunderstood lizards out there. They have such a bad reputation. Most geckos run when scared but not Tokays, they stand their ground. That doesn't mean that they are mean and nasty, they are just scared. To them we look like huge predators. Heck yeah I'd bite someone if I was a gecko and someone grabbed me! So you ask "How do I tame a Tokay?" Well you have to gain their trust of course. Stick your hand in the cage next to them but move really slow when you do it. After a minute move closer but watch the gecko for signs that they might bite you. If they start puffing up and make noises stop moving and just keep your hand still. After another minute try to get closer, slowly barely moving. Keep doing this until you are touching the side of the gecko and he is not showing signs of being defensive. After another minute try to very slowly push your hand under the gecko. Very important to do this as slow as possible and remain still if he shows defensive posture. Once you have him on your hand just sit there for a min or two. He might jump off but then you just try again to slide your hand under him. Eventually he will see you aren't trying to hurt him. This is the first step in getting him to trust you. Once he has been sitting in your hand for awhile slowly lift him up out of the cage. If he jumps off just do it again. Once you get him out watch his posture to see if he is going to jump. Be ready because he probably will try. If he does don't grab him. Instead catch him with your open hand when he lands. If you grab him at all you lose all trust he has for you and he will bite and you will be back at square one. Eventually he will calm down and sit in your hand. When he starts to trust you he will start walking hand over hand sticking out his tongue tasting you. After you hold him for a long while with him walking hand over hand or with him just sitting on you put him back in his cage. Don't put him back if you haven't gained any ground. Do this every day for a week or more depending on your gecko and the amount of time spent holding it and he should become completely tame for you. Some tips and pointers: Most geckos love applesauce and Tokays are no exception. Put a little on your finger tip and touch his nose. At first he will probably just sit there but if you keep it there long enough he will become curious and taste it. I give it to mine as a treat and they readily lick it up. Once they are comfortable with you they will also take superworms and crickets right out of your hand. Another thing to remember is when taming your Tokay never move fast and keep them away from people or things that make sudden movement or they will take off. The Tokays I have were tame in just days after getting them. My male I got as a baby and my female I got as a wild caught adult.

My Tokays are so tame and nice that my 5 yr old daughter can play with them. Tame Tokays are awesome, they have very laid back personalities and love to just chill and hang out with you.